As could be expected from the former child star, justin bieber clothes has received many a fashion transformation over time. He’s done quiffed hair plus a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented with a floppy fringe along with a suit. But although some of his tries to toughen up have been met with derision, the most recent part in the Biebvolution is definitely bang about the fashion money. There have been ripped jeans. There were oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts together with the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen a great deal of layering – and many raw edges.
Not all people gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s reaction to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) nevertheless the latest incarnation of Bieber ties right into a mood which is sweeping through menswear – and may even be arriving in your wardrobe soon.
Simply speaking: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is within. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge using a tracksuit top plus a pierced ear thrown in for good measure. You could dub it a hot mess for males, but the one thing you would probably never think of it is hipster – manicured beards must be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore on the teen awards, has been integral on the surge in popularity of denim and also of jeans that are hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the level of look that creates parents eyeroll and say: “You given money for that? Do want me to get proper hems on those?”, it has legs. Elsewhere on the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent out herringbone trousers that had been roughly stop on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing occurring; close up, the holes within these knits are layered over a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – can there be in all of the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a superb reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, just about the most in-demand photographers popular, these pictures use a typical masculine rawness. Within a short video to accompany this shoot, you can also see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories to the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is it Man?, as the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The latter sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff was also across just about the most talked-about moments of your spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that was kept in a Chinese restaurant variously described as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes which were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like they had just presented of bed. A lot of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as in the parcel delivery service); even the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a turn on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots along with a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in fashion is just set to keep: following the show, among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, ended up being to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is yet another of the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label is supported by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel like a nerdy undertake Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, although not.
In fact, if everything else fails, the key to this look is actually a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for women (see British Vogue’s December issue, through which several tracktops are featured included in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up summarize this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, mainly because it ticks the 1990s box – along with the dexqpkyy16 is now the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the alternative of all the justin bieber clothing that has been the headline news in menswear for the past several years. And lastly, it’s very easy to chuck on, doesn’t appear like you’ve made an attempt but suggests that you know what’s occurring. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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