The world of RC has several different facets; there’s really something for everyone. One of several areas I’ve set my sights on mastering will be the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned in terms of driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is preferable to rubber. When 3Racing sent over their SCX10 II, I needed to scoop one as much as see what every one of the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO MAKES IT: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any level of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
HOW MUCH: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for convenient learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or in the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Lots of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips off the roller bearing
This drifter has a great deal choosing it; well manufactured, a lot of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very economical price. Handling is nice too after you get used to the kit setup, plus it accepts an extremely number of body styles. There’s also a huge amount of tunability for individuals who love to tinker, and this car should grow with you as the skills do.
The D4’s chassis is actually a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It provides cutouts on the bottom for your front and back diffs to peek through in addition to a bazillion countersunk holes. The majority of these can be used as mounting stuff like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find several left empty. They can be used to control chassis flex, but not with all the stock top deck; an optional one must be found. The layout is comparable to a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are readily accessible and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.
? Other than a couple of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is much like a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are utilized, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to raise them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll as the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This method allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and allows for some extreme camber settings.
? One important thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious volume of steering throw they may have. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so that as near to the edges in the chassis as is possible. This generates a massive 65° angle, enough to regulate the D4 in even the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend most of their time sideways, I needed an effective servo to keep up with the continual countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Without needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 uses a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A huge, 92T 48P spur is attached to the central gear shaft, where the front and back belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high over the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability on the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to allow using a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To present the D4 a bit of beauty, I opted for 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. This really is a beautiful replica with this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how you can paint it, nevertheless i do remember a method I used quite some time back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a try of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the surface with a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I really like the final result … and yes it was easy. That’s good because I’m an extremely impatient painter!
Around The TRACK
Just for this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to do a photo shoot for another vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and acquire some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is very amazing. While I mentioned earlier, the throw is actually a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. Even CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Although it does look a bit funny with all the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an incredible job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the correct direction. This is, to some extent, on account of the awesome handling of the D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I realize that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, you may control the angle of attack and the sideways motion through any corner. I discovered Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to do exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle alterations in alter the angle of your D4 when and where I needed. Sliding in the little shallow? Add more throttle to find the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a bit as well as the D4 would get back in line. It’s all dependent on ? nesse, and also the Novak system is made for just that. I did so must be a little creative using the install from the system because of limited space around the chassis, but overall it figured out great.
After driving connected touring cars for a time, it will go on a little getting used to knowing that a car losing grip and sliding is the correct way across the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control after you obtain it, it’s beautiful. Having a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, at the same time keeping the nose pointed in at less than two or three inches through the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of hand thing, along with the D4 will it wonderfully. The kit setup is good, but if you are just like you require more of something anything there’s plenty of items to adjust. I actually enjoyed the vehicle together with the kit setup plus it was just dependent on a battery pack or two before I was swinging the rear round the hairpins, round the carousel and forward and backward from the chicane. I never had the chance to strap battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m getting excited about.
There’s not a whole lot that can be done to damage a drift car they’re really not going everything fast. I have done, however, have an trouble with the top belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the peak deck. Through the initial run, it suddenly felt much like the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept along with it, seeking to overcome the issue with driving, but soon had to RPM Team losi parts it into actually give it a look. Through the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that may be maintained by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square on the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, when the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide away from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes down in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura an extended screw with a couple of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a bit more. Problem solved.